Amaryllis: Difference between revisions
imported>Pat Palmer (adding a photo of an amaryllis coaxed to bloom during winter) |
imported>Pat Palmer (more info about bulbs and propogation) |
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Most kinds of amaryllis are derived from the hybrid ''H. x johnsonii'', created in 1799. It descendants include varieties produced flowers ranging in color from deep red to red-orange to white. | Most kinds of amaryllis are derived from the hybrid ''H. x johnsonii'', created in 1799. It descendants include varieties produced flowers ranging in color from deep red to red-orange to white. | ||
== Dormancy of bulbs during deep winter == | |||
Amaryllis grow from bulbs. Amaryllis foliage cannot survive if temperatures fall below around 50 degree Fahrenheit, and the bulbs (even if embedded in soil and mulched) will seldom survive if temperatures reach freezing. In cooler climates (but still above freezing), the foliage and flower stalks will die down in winter, and then begin growing again as soon as the days begin to length after the winter solstice. In cold climates, people can plant the bulbs outside spring through all, but before freezing temperatures arrive, dig the bulbs and move them to a cool storage area such as a basement where they can still receive at least low light. While dormant, they still require water from time to time, as they are not dead. The bulbs will go dormant in late fall as the days shorten, but will begin growing again as soon as the days begin to lengthen. The bulbs can be planted outside again as soon as temperatures stop dropping below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. | |||
As bulbs begin to grow in early spring, they will try to bloom even before producing foliage. After producing one to three bloom stalks (depending on the strength and maturity of the bulb, as well as growing conditions), the bulb will spend its last energy producing huge, grass-like leaves. The foliage, once in place, begins to nourish the bulb, which bulks up in preparation for the ''next'' winter season. | |||
== Propogation == | |||
There are two means of propogating amaryllis bulbs. The first is by bulb division. A healthy bulb may eventually put out child bulbs to the side, which can (once large enough) be carefully separated from the parent bulb (usually after a couple of growing seasons). Alternatively, blooms (if undisturbed and allowed to "go to seed" without being disturbed) will produce small seeds which scatter and germinate in loose soil. It can take the seedlets several years of growing time before they will be large enough to create blossoms themselves. The first year, their bulbs might reach around a centimeter (or about the size of a U.S. dime). By the second year, a seedlet's small bulb might become about 2 cm in size (close to the size of a U. S. dime). After 3-5 years, once they become greater than 2 or 3 inches, they will be strong enough to bloom. | |||
By growers, propogation by bulb division is preferred, because with seeds, it is impossible to know exactly what color will emerge unless the grower was very carefully able to control the pollination process. | |||
Revision as of 09:08, 10 February 2021
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Amaryllis is the common name for a group of showy ornamental perennials in the genus Hippeastrum.
These flowers are native to tropical South America, most varieties require protection and care to grow even in temperate climates. Where it is cultivated, the offsets are planted in late summer or early fall for winter-blooming varieties, and early spring for summer-blooming ones. All need a minimum temperature of 55-60° Fahrenheit to grow.
Most kinds of amaryllis are derived from the hybrid H. x johnsonii, created in 1799. It descendants include varieties produced flowers ranging in color from deep red to red-orange to white.
Dormancy of bulbs during deep winter
Amaryllis grow from bulbs. Amaryllis foliage cannot survive if temperatures fall below around 50 degree Fahrenheit, and the bulbs (even if embedded in soil and mulched) will seldom survive if temperatures reach freezing. In cooler climates (but still above freezing), the foliage and flower stalks will die down in winter, and then begin growing again as soon as the days begin to length after the winter solstice. In cold climates, people can plant the bulbs outside spring through all, but before freezing temperatures arrive, dig the bulbs and move them to a cool storage area such as a basement where they can still receive at least low light. While dormant, they still require water from time to time, as they are not dead. The bulbs will go dormant in late fall as the days shorten, but will begin growing again as soon as the days begin to lengthen. The bulbs can be planted outside again as soon as temperatures stop dropping below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
As bulbs begin to grow in early spring, they will try to bloom even before producing foliage. After producing one to three bloom stalks (depending on the strength and maturity of the bulb, as well as growing conditions), the bulb will spend its last energy producing huge, grass-like leaves. The foliage, once in place, begins to nourish the bulb, which bulks up in preparation for the next winter season.
Propogation
There are two means of propogating amaryllis bulbs. The first is by bulb division. A healthy bulb may eventually put out child bulbs to the side, which can (once large enough) be carefully separated from the parent bulb (usually after a couple of growing seasons). Alternatively, blooms (if undisturbed and allowed to "go to seed" without being disturbed) will produce small seeds which scatter and germinate in loose soil. It can take the seedlets several years of growing time before they will be large enough to create blossoms themselves. The first year, their bulbs might reach around a centimeter (or about the size of a U.S. dime). By the second year, a seedlet's small bulb might become about 2 cm in size (close to the size of a U. S. dime). After 3-5 years, once they become greater than 2 or 3 inches, they will be strong enough to bloom.
By growers, propogation by bulb division is preferred, because with seeds, it is impossible to know exactly what color will emerge unless the grower was very carefully able to control the pollination process.